commercial painting services for a small retail shop

Whether you are looking for commercial painting services for a small retail shop or an entire office building, Beverly Painting will complete your project safely, on time and on budget, with minimum disruption to your business.

We provide Safe Work Method Statements (SWMS) that will be site specific for each commercial painting project and toolbox talks prior to the commencement of each work shift.

Our estimators will provide a specified commercial painting schedule to assist with planning and budgeting for your project including an accurate price, methodology and work breakdown structure (WBS).

Our commercial painters and supervisors will follow our Quality Management System (QMS) including our Workplace Health and Safety Handbook to ensure safe and high quality painting services.

Our commercial painting projects speak for themselves. Customers are our best asset and we can provide testimonials on request.

Prompt response and free quotes with a site visit within 24 hours.

Licensed and Insured (Worker compensation, $20 million public liability)

3 Year no questions asked warranty.

10 year Gold warranty (as part of a long term maintenance contract).

Competitive pricing.

Highly experienced and professional teams.

On time and on budget, no hidden costs.

Minimal disruption and hassle free.

Quality assured.

Workplace safety culture.

Working at heights (EWP & rope access).

Directors as project managers, consistent communication.

After hours and flexible working hours to minimise disruption.

PREPARING SURFACE

In your residential or commercial painting job, small cracks, dents, holes or gouges in plaster walls or ceilings can be repaired with interior filler. To search for cracks and gaps that need repairing, hold a torch to the wall and run it over the surface to highlight any flaws that aren’t obvious in natural light. Circle the problem areas with a pencil.

Corner cracks 
These cracks tend to indicate movement between the adjoining walls, and require caulking, which is flexible even with a bit of wall movement, preventing the crack from reappearing.
1. Squeeze a narrow bead of flexible gap sealant directly over the crack, around 3 mm in diameter, but don’t overfill as it can make the square corner appear rounded.
2. Mould the gap sealant into the crack with a wet finger.

Nail pops 
Fasteners driven too far through plasterboard paper during installation or gaps between the plasterboard and the wall stud can result in nail pops. Movement of the timber makes the Filler over the area pop out from the wall. 1. Add a screw near the first to hold the plasterboard firm. Tap on the pop with the handle of a broadknife to recess a hole,
2. then cover over both nail and screw heads with some wall filler.

External corners 
Metal corner angles sometimes pop through the surface plaster. In other cases, vertical hairline cracks form slightly beyond the corner, usually because the angle wasn’t nailed securely or covered in tape.
1. Secure with extra 30 mm plasterboard nails through the loose edges of the corner angle to hold it flat to the wall.
2. Centre tape over the entire length of the angle and cover with two coats of joint compound.

Loose tape 
Plasterboard joint tape tends to blister and peel when there isn’t enough joint compound under the tape to anchor it to the plasterboard.
1. Cut and peel the loose tape beyond the evident crack, and fill the hole with fast setting wall filler and leave to dry.
2. Embed a strip of paper tape into the joint compound to cover the patch, then overlay two wide applications of joint compound to blend the patch into the wall.

Damaged areas 
If significant damage has been made to a large part of the wall, the damaged area should be skim-coated in a thin layer of joint compound. Begin by removing loose plasterboard poper then prime the remaining raw paper.
Use a brush to saturate the paper with paint and wipe any runs. When dry, lightly sand any raised nubs.
1. Trowel on the joint compound using overlapping vertical strokes.
2. Finish with overlapping horizontal strokes.

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This limited painting standard warranty does not cover

Any work where Beverly Painting did not supply the paint or other materials.

Any work which was not prepared carried out and completed by Beverly Painting.

Surfaces made of, or containing, galvanized metal.

Repairs to horizontal surfaces or any surface that, because its design allows moisture to collect. Include, but not limited to railings, decks, roofs , window sills and stairs.

Paint matching exactly, as the environmental situation will affect the colour and all existing and new paints finish over time. Neither can we guarantee that the finish coating will exactly match the finish paint samples which you selected.

Natural finished wood surfaces or Varnished.

Any repairs which are required as a result of a defect in the paint, Including but not limited to, chalking, fading, lapping and flashing regardless of whether the paint was supplied by the customer or Beverly Painting.

Bleeding caused by cedar, rust or knots.

Cracks in plaster, wood or drywall.

Mould, mildew or any other environmental conditions appearance.

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(part1)PREPARING SURFACE

Any professional painter will tell you that preparation is crucial to a good finish. It’s time-consuming and hard work stripping off old finishes – and even new, bare plaster needs priming – but your job will be far easier if you know what to do.

PAINTED OR WALLPAPERED SURFACES

    Gloss painted

• If repainting and existing paint is sound, wash with sugar soap and water.
• If papering, rub surface with a damp flexible sanding pad to remove the sheen and provide a key for new paint. Ideally, hang lining paper.

      Acrylic painted

• • • If acrylic is peeling, strip back to a sound base. There may be an unstable layer of kalsomine underneath.
    • If the acrylic is sound, wash and roughen the surface with sugar soap and water.
    • If papering, use a wallpaper size.
      Kalsomine
      Kalsomine – an obsolete, water-based paint – forms a chalky barrier which prevents paint or paper adhering to the wall.
    • Scrub off with a rough cloth or a nylon pan scourer and water.
    • If there is a thick coating, damp the whole area, then scrape with a wide stripping knife. Never scrape kalsomine without wetting; it makes too much mess.
    • Coat any remaining kalsomine with an oil-based sealer/binder.
      Standard wallpaper
    • Soften ordinary wallpaper with warm water and a little washing-up liquid.
    • Add a handful of wallpaper paste to each bucket of water – it helps to hold the water on the wall.
    • Use a scraper to lift off the paper.
      Painted wallpaper
    • Roughen the surface with coarse abrasive paper before you wet it or use a steamer.
    • If the paint is thick, you may have to score the surface with a wallpaper scorer.
    • Never use a wire brush – if slivers of metal become embedded in the plaster, they will corrode and stain wall coverings.

    • Vinyls, washables and wipe-clean papers

      • Buy or hire a steam wallpaper stripper, especially if the wall is covered with layers of old paper. Score the surface first so that water can penetrate.
      • Vinyls are easier to strip – the vinyl skin can be pulled from its backing, then the backing can be soaked and stripped.
      • With some modern papers and vinyls (called easy-strip), the backing can be left on the wall as lining paper for the next wallcovering. This only works if the paper is well stuck. If there are any loose areas, strip the whole lot TILES, TEXTURES AND BRICKS Textured coatings
        Thick coatings applied by brush or roller on ceilings and walls are difficult to remove.
      • If you simply want to repaint the textured surface, lightly scrub it with a mild solution of sugar soap and water and allow to dry.
        Polystyrene tiles
        Expanded polystyrene ceiling tiles can be painted with acrylic, but never with gloss paint. To remove tiles, lever each one away from the surface and then scrape off the tile adhesive.
        Ceramic tiles
        If tiles are to be painted, make sure they are clean and dry, then use a specialist tile paint. You cannot hang wallpaper over tiles so you may wish to remove them. Beware, this is hard work, and will necessitate replastering the wall.
        Cork tiles
        Cork tiles cannot be painted over, though you may be able to cover them with lining paper and wallpaper.
      • Prise each tile away from the wall with a wide stripping knife or a bolster chisel.
      • To remove hard lumps of glue, follow the instructions for taking down expanded polystyrene tiles.
      
      
      Brush the bricks to remove dust.      
      • Paint interior bricks with acrylic primer then acrylic top coat or leave them unpainted.
        Steam-stripping a ceiling
        You can use a steam wallpaper stripper to remove old painted or washable wallpaper from a ceiling. Because you will be using the steaming plate above head level, take precautions to protect yourself from being splashed by very hot water. Wear a baseball cap or similar headgear, safety goggles, a longsleeved shirt and work gloves. Set up a work platform across the room, rather than trying to work from steps, so you can hold the steaming plate in front of you as you work across the ceiling strip by strip. Put down plenty of drop sheets, and let the scrapings fall to the floor.
        Be warned, however; this is a messy and time-consuming job, and you may prefer to employ a plasterer to apply a skim coat of plaster over the old finish to create a smooth ceiling surface.
    •  Exposed brick

DEALING WITH PAINT PROBLEMS

The main causes of paint breaking down in the most residential and commercial painting jobs are incompatible paints being applied on top of one another, poor preparation of the surface, damp or trapped moisture, grease, rot or rust.

FLAKING

The paint has not been keyed to the surface, which may be too smooth (as with old gloss paint) or may be chalky (as with untreated kalsomine). Alternatively, rotting timber may be pushing the paint off or rust may have formed underneath

• • Strip small areas by rubbing gently with fine abrasive paper, fill with a fine surface filler, apply a primer and repaint.
  • larger areas must be completely stripped and prepared again from scratch.

BLISTERING

Prick a blister – if water emerges, damp is trapped under the paint or is finding its way in from behind.

• Strip the blistered paint with a hol-air gun and leave until it has dried.
• Prime the surface and then repaint the whole of the repaired area.

CRAZING

When a paint surface breaks up like mini crazy paving, incompatible paints have been used. The top layer of paint

breaks up because it expands at a different rate from the one underneath.

•  Usually, you must strip the paint with chemicals or a hot-air gun and start again.
• Rub down very small areas – no more than a few centimetres square – with a flexible sanding pad or with wet-and-dry paper dampened with water.
•  When the surface is smooth, fill the stripped area with a fine surface filler, prime and repaint

VISIBLE UNDER-COLOUR

Some strong colours are difficult to paint over effectively.

•  A tinted undercoat can help, depending on what colour (or white) is to be the new topcoat. Apply two or three topcoats.
  RUNS
  Too much paint applied in a thick coat results in runs that are hard to disguise
•  If the paint is still wet, brush out runs; but not if the paint has started to dry. Instead, wait until it is completely dry and then rub down with very fine abrasive paper until the surface is smooth.
•  Clean with a damp rag.
• Apply a new thin topcoat

 

STAINS

Stains occur when water in acrylic paint activates impurities in a wall; areas rubbed with a wire brush or wire wool develop rust stains; or deposits in an unlined flue gradually work their way through the paint surface.

• Prevent stains by treating them with a bleed sealer before you start painting.
• If the problem, occurs afterwards, brush a primer-sealer over stain and then repaint.

MOULD AND DISCOLOURATION

Spores settling on paintwork that is damp – possibly due to condensation forming on it-often lead to mould patches.

• Treat the affected area with a fungicide as directed by the FLAWS AND SPILLS manufacturer, wash the surface clean, let it dry and then repaint.

LOSS OF GLOSS SHEEN

Gloss paint will sink into the surface and lose its shine if the surface was not primed- or if either primer or undercoat was not left to dry completely.

• Rub down with damp wet-and-dry abrasive paper.
• Brush off the dust and wipe with a clean, damp rag, then apply a new topcoat.

WRINKLED PAINT

Usually caused by applying a second coat of paint before the first has dried. Solvents in the wet paint underneath attack the second coat when they try to pass through it and make it wrinkle.

• Strip the paint with a chemical stripper or heat and redecorate, this time allowing each coat to dry before applying the next.

GRITTY PAINT SURFACE

If a newly painted surface feels rough and gritty, paint has been applied with a dirty brush or has become contaminated by the surrounding areas. Or there may have been bits of skin in the paint. Always paint with clean brushes and use a paint pot. Strain old paint through a paint strainer or old stockings. Use a shield of piece of card to guard against picking up dirt from a floor.

•  When a gritty surface is dry, rub down with a damp wet-and-dry abrasive paper until it is smooth, wipe clean, then apply a new coat of paint.

 

PAINT WILL NOT DRY

The room is badly ventilated or very cold.

• Open all the windows and doors or put a heater in the room.
• If these efforts do not solve the problem, the paint has been applied to a dirty – and quite probably greasy surface.
• Strip off the paint with chemical stripper or a heat gun and start again, taking great care to clean the surface thoroughly.

FLAWS AND SPILLS

Carpet spill

Act fast if you spill paint. Scrape up as much as you can with a flat-bladed tool. Then dab off what’s left with dry absorbent cloths and paper before lifting the last traces with clean cloths dampened with cold water (for spilt acrylic) or mineral turpentine (for solvent-based paint). Use washing-up liquid on a damp cloth to remove traces of mineral turpentine from fabric.

Paint on glass

The best tool for removing paint from a window pane is a plastic scraper fitted with a trimming knife blade. The blade should be inset very slightly so it cannot mark the frame.

Insects or stray bristles on painted surface

If you can, remove insects or stray bristles that get stuck to fresh paint while the paint is still wet and touch up the surface with a brush and new paint. If the paint has started to dry, wait until it has set hard and then brush away the object – they make less of a mess that way.

residential painting with beverly painting

PAINT TECHNIQUES (part3:Paint pads and Roller)

For any residential and commercial painting jobs, roller and paint pads are two useful tools for applying paint for large and small areas.

 

Paint pads

Paint pads are the best choice for applying thin coats of paint to smooth surfaces easily and without drips. They are particularly useful for painting hard-to-reach sections of trim.

USING A PAINT PAD

 

Paint pads are suitable for applying water-based paints. They quickly cover large areas like walls and ceilings and will cope with lightly textured surfaces.
1)Stir the paint and pour some into a flat tray or the speed tray sometimes supplied.
2)Run the pad backwards and forwards on the roller in the speed tray or hold the pad flat against the paint in the tray. Do not let it sink below the pile level. If the pad absorbs too much paint it will drip. A pad needs to be reloaded more often than a brush or roller.

3)Start painting near a comer. Move the pad in all directions with a gentle scrubbing action. Work in strips about four times the width of the pad.
4)Do not press too hard or paint may be forced off the pad in drips. With practice you should get no drips at all.

 

CUTTING-IN WITH AN EDGING PAD

Paint pads are suitable for applying water-based paints. They quickly cover large areas like walls and ceilings and will cope with lightly textured surfaces.
1)Stir the paint and pour some into a flat tray or the speed tray sometimes supplied.
2)Run the pad backwards and forwards on the roller in the speed tray or hold the pad flat against the paint in the tray. Do not let it sink below the pile level. If the pad absorbs too much paint it will drip. A pad needs to be reloaded more often than a brush or roller.

Using a roller

A roller is a fantastic way to cover large areas with paint in less time than it would take with a brush. Lighter patches, roller marks, splashes and built-up ridges are common painting problems, but mastering a few basic roller techniques helps to avoid them.

CHOOSING A ROLLER

A good roller is sturdy with grip-like teeth to prevent the cover from slipping. The roller should spin freely, have an ergonomic and solvent-resistant handle and a durable frame with a metal arm. Make sure it has a threaded handle to attach an extension handle.
TIP For the perfect finish, don’t overload the roller with paint when cutting into trim.
Got it covered
Foam applies a seamless finish ideal for cutting close to trim. Use a foam roller with foam pads on edging for a similar texture across the wall.
Lambswool is tough and durable yet made from soft fibre that holds paint well with minimum splatter.
Synthetic fibres hold lots of paint on the roller, saving time in application.
Microfibre has minimal lint shedding, and is suited to most surfaces.
Mohair is easy to clean and the extra-fine fibre holds and releases paint well. Best with high-gloss paints.
Roller care
New roller Reduce shedding from a new cover by dabbing it with masking tape to remove loose fibres.
Cleaning up for waterbased paint put the roller in a plastic

cylinder that connects to the hose and wash until the water runs clean. When dry, recycle old potato chip cylinder containers to store the clean roller covers.
TIP If taking a short break, cover the roller in plastic wrap to keep the paint wet. Or scrape paint from the cover and rinse until the water runs clear.

 

PAINT WITH A ROLLER

1)Brush paint around the edges of the wall. Load a roller
with paint, starting 300 mm from the floor and 150 mm from the side, rolling upwards at a slight angle with light pressure. Stop short of the ceiling and roll down, working quickly to spread paint evenly.

2) Reload the roller and repeat from a starting point further across the wall, working back towards the freshly painted area.

3)Roll back over the painted area with light pressure to smooth and blend, moving across so the roller always slightly overlaps the previous paint stroke. Continue this way across the wall

4)Without reloading the roller, carefully smooth the paint along the ceiling with long, horizontal strokes, getting as close as possible.

5)To paint around trim, architraves, skirting and frames, J apply paint with long, horizontal strokes. Smooth the paint with short, vertical 

strokes to match the texture of the wall.

PAINT TECHNIQUES (Part2:paintbrushes)

In this article we concentrate on how to select and use a Paintbrush for your residential painting or commercial painting job.

Paintbrushes

A paintbrush is a versatile tool for applying primers, undercoats, varnishes and topcoats to a variety of surfaces. Use one for applying gloss to wood and metalwork, and for where colours or surfaces meet – around windows and doors, for example.

HOLDING A BRUSH

Hold the handle between the thumb and first finger, resting the fingertips at the top of the handle.

Dip the brush in the paint so it reaches halfway up the bristles then wipe it on the side of the can to remove the excess. Use short, even strokes to apply the paint using both sides of the bristles.

3.Flick the bristles against your hand to remove dust, old paint and loose bristles.USING A BRUSH

1.Stir the paint – unless it is non-drip. Make sure any liquid on the surface is thoroughly mixed into the paint by lifting the stick as you stir.

2.Choose a brush which is the right size. As a rough guide, paint window frames with a 25 mm brush, door panels with a 75 mm brush, and walls and other large surfaces with a 100 mm brush. Grip large brushes around the handle and hold smaller brushes more like a pencil.

4.Dip the brush into a paint pot, to about one half of the bristle depth

5.Press the brush against the pot wall to remove surplus paint. Do not scrape the brush over the rim of the pot because too much paint will come off.

6.After you have applied the paint, wipe the brush on the edge of the pot to remove paint that works up the handle.

PAINTER’S MUG

Bolt a handle to a 500g coffee tin, coating the bolts with silicone to seal the holes. On the opposite side, drill two holes just below the rim of the tin, slide a length of coathanger wire through them, and use to scrape excess point off your brush. Now you have the perfect paint pot.

Flick the bristles to keep dust, particles of dried paint and loose bristles out of your paint.

PAINTING WITH GLOSS

1.Start at the top of the surface. Paint three vertical strips parallel with each other, leaving a gap just narrower than the brush width between the strips.

2.Do not reload the brush. Working from the top, brush across the painted area horizontally to fill the gaps and smooth the paint.

3.With the brush now almost dry, lightly go over the section you have just painted with vertical strokes to ensure an even coating, stopping on an upward stroke. This is called ‘laying off’.

4.Using the same technique, paint a similar sized section underneath the one you have completed, Work the wet point into the dry.

PAINTING A STRAIGHT EDGE

In most cases, painting a straight edge means following a guide that is already in place, such as the junction of a wall with a baseboard. If there are no guides available, use a plumb line for marking vertical lines or a carpenter’s level for horizontal lines.

TIP To keep paint or stain from running down your arm when working overhead, wear a rubber glove, roll the cuff back, and put some toilet paper inside. The paper will absorb the drips.

PAINTING WITH TACRYLIC

1. Start at the top of the wall. Apply the paint in all directions, working horizontally across the surface and moving down when one band is complete. Do not put the paint on too thickly.

2. Lay off the paint with light brush strokes and a fairly dry brush, working in a crisscross pattern. Lift the paint finally on upward strokes.

PAINTING A TEXTURED SURFACE 

When painting a surface with a heavy texture or relief, load the brush with more paint than for a smooth ceiling or wall. This cuts down the time it takes to coat the surface and fill all the little indentations. But dip to only a third of the bristle depth.

If you are painting a very heavily textured surface, use a brush as wide as you can comfortably manage without putting too much strain on your wrist. A 100 mm paintbrush is ideal. With a textured coating on a wall or a ceiling, you can use a shaggy pile roller instead.

CUTTING-IN WHERE COLOURS MEET 

Where walls meet the ceiling and where adjacent walls are of different colours, keep the meeting edge as straight and as neat as possible. This is one job you should not rush

1.Turn the paintbrush edge on, holding it like a pen.

2.Load the brush with enough paint to cover about one-third of the bristle depth.

3.Press the brush flat against the surface so that a small amount of paint (the bead) is squeezed from the bristles. Work towards the edge gradually, rather than trying to get close immediately.

4.Draw the brush sideways or downwards along the surface, keeping your hand steady all the time

CUTTING-IN

Achieve a neat finish along wall and ceiling edges by first painting the edges with a brush, before switching to a roller or pad.

1.Paint four or five overlapping strokes at right angles to the edge.

2.Cross-brush over the painted area in a long, sweeping motion, keeping parallel with the edge.

KEEP A LID ON IT

Pour enough paint into your pot to cover about half of the bristles of your brush. A continuous supply of fresh, new paint will result in a better job. Keep the lid on the paint tin to exclude dust and debris. A layer of aluminum foil or plastic inside the pot will help to reduce cleaning later.

Using old paint

Wipe the rim before you open an old tin of paint. If a skin has formed, cut around the edge and lift it out. Stir the paint well and then strain it through an old stocking to remove any bits of hardened paint.

Residential painting services

Whether you are looking for a residential painting service for your entire house or even one room, Beverly Painting will meet and exceed your expectations for interior and exterior house painting.

We promise to finish your house painting on time and clean up after ourselves.

We respect that we will be working at your home and we have a policy of no-smoking, no loud music, and we only employ people with the appropriate language skills who act with courtesy, punctuality and cleanliness.

We provide a fixed quote for your house painting with no hidden costs or extra charges.

We prove our quality with a 3 year, no questions asked, warranty. We act on any concerns or problems quickly and courteously, with no hassle. We honour our warranty.

We are proud of our reputation. We also have warranty insurance to cover residential painting and commercial painting jobs. You can be confident that we are focussed on providing outstanding workmanship with superior quality every time.

In addition, we offer a 10 Year Gold Warranty which is part of a long term maintenance contract that we provide to retain the high standard of painting that has been established.

Our painting job isn’t done until we receive your complete approval and satisfaction and you will pay balance invoice when you are 100% satisfied from our house painting job.

Our projects speak for themselves. Customers are our best asset and we can provide testimonials on request.

PAINT TECHNIQUES part1

By this series of articles, Beverly Painting will take you through all DIY painting steps from preparation to paint a room including choosing the right paint. In this article we concentrate on paint preparation.

Preparing the paint

So, you have purchased your paint and you want to get stuck in to the residential painting or commercial painting job, but there are a few things you need to do first to ensure a successful painting job.

BLENDING FOR COLOUR

If the job you are working on requires two or three 4 litre cans of paint, mix, or ‘box’, the paint from all the cans together to get a consistent colour. To do this, find a clean container and open all of the paint cans (Make sure you are using right device to remove the lids). Pour half of the paint from the first can into the extra container. Then pour some paint from the second and third cans into the first can. Move to the extra container and pour in some more paint from the second and third cans. Then pour the contents of all four containers back and forth several times. When the paint is mixed, return it to the original containers and seal the lids tightly. A much quicker alternative is to mix all the paint together in a single 20 litre container, if you can find a suitable one.

Mixing it up

Any electric drill mixing attachment is handy for water-based and oil-based paints. But don’t use the attachment to stir lacquer, epoxy paint, shellac, or any finish that includes ‘Do not shake can’ on its label. You won’t need to do battle with the bubbles that power-mixing stirs up. Instead, stir these paints and finishes by hand; they will stay fairly free of bubbles.

Newspaper collar

Here is another home-made way to minimise the mess created when stirring a full can of paint. Increase the height of the can by taping some folded sheets of newspaper around it. Any spills will fall onto the paper and not onto your workbench or floor.

Splatter shield

Stirring full cans of paint with a drill-driven mixer can splatter paint everywhere. One way to contain the mess is with a large coffee tin lid (one that comes with the 500 g or 1 kg tins). Drill a hole in the centre of the lid and slip it onto the mixer shaft before inserting the mixer into the drill. Hold the lid tightly over the paint can while you are mixing.

Milk carton mixer

Cut off the top of a clean 1 litre cardboard milk carton and use it as a container for mixing (or just holding) small amounts of paint or stain. The paint won’t stick to the wax coated interior, and the corner of the carton makes a good pouring spout.

Manual stirring

manual paint stirrer is more effective if it has several holes along its length. With each stroke the paint flows back and forth through the holes, allowing for faster, more thorough blending. You can buy a perforated metal stirrer or make your own wooden one. To make your own, find a long flat piece of scrap timber and use a drill to make a series of small holes. Rinse your stirrer thoroughly after use to prevent the holes from getting clogged with dried paint.

The holes in this stirrer allow paint to pass through easily which assists mixing and helps to prevent paint from spilling over the edge of the paint pot.

As always now it is the time for practical painting tips:

Top tips for peerless painting

Painting is an inexpensive way to make a big difference to the feel of your home, and to add value. To get you started, here are some essential painting tips to give you a flawless finish, every time.

• Always prepare your surfaces thoroughly. All preparatory work must be done before you start painting. So check that all surfaces are stable, as smooth as possible, primed where necessary and are clean and dry.
• Buy the best quality brushes and rollers you can afford – poor quality tools are a false economy and can often result in an unsatisfactory finish.
• Stir the paint well before use, pulling the pigment up from the bottom to the top. Paint colour can also vary sightly from can to can, so try to paint an entire wall or surface from the one can, if possible.
• Be methodical and systematic in your painting technique. Always work from top to bottom. Paint the ceiling first, before starting on the walls or the trim.
• Always cut-in (paint around the edges) before rolling a wall or a ceiling.
• Never paint when the temperature is falling. Choose a warm, dry day for optimal drying conditions. When painting outside, choose to work after a dry spell, as paint will not take to damp surfaces.
• Allow adequate drying time between coats of paint. One thing you never want to do is hurry a paint job – allow surfaces time to dry overnight if you can, so that the second coat is applied to a dry surface.

Painting services for Education Centers

Beverly Painting will help you to complete your university or school painting project safely, on time and on budget, with minimum disruption to your staff, students and administrators schedules.

Our estimators will provide a specified painting schedule to assist with planning and budgeting for your project including an accurate painting price, methodology and a complete work breakdown structure.

We also offer weekends and night works as well school holidays, public holidays and Christmas periods.
We provide Safe Work Method Statements (SWMS) that will be site specific for each university or school painting project and toolbox talks prior to the commencement of each work shift.

Our university or school painting supervisors and teams will follow our Quality Management System (QMS) including our Workplace Health and Safety Handbook to ensure safe and high quality painting services.

We determine the most cost effective and safest method to access your building as well as stay competitive by utilising our own EWP and scaffolding.

To ensure the highest quality finish, we use only premium brands of paint and by using low-VOC products, your staff and students can enjoy a freshly painted environment without the odour of new paint.

We listen to our customers. At Beverly Painting, we have a policy of no-smoking, no loud music, and we only employ people with the appropriate language skills who act with courtesy, punctuality and cleanliness.

Our projects speak for themselves. Customers are our best asset and we can provide testimonials on request.

Painting services for Education Centers