PREPARING SURFACE

In your residential or commercial painting job, small cracks, dents, holes or gouges in plaster walls or ceilings can be repaired with interior filler. To search for cracks and gaps that need repairing, hold a torch to the wall and run it over the surface to highlight any flaws that aren’t obvious in natural light. Circle the problem areas with a pencil.

Corner cracks 
These cracks tend to indicate movement between the adjoining walls, and require caulking, which is flexible even with a bit of wall movement, preventing the crack from reappearing.
1. Squeeze a narrow bead of flexible gap sealant directly over the crack, around 3 mm in diameter, but don’t overfill as it can make the square corner appear rounded.
2. Mould the gap sealant into the crack with a wet finger.

Nail pops 
Fasteners driven too far through plasterboard paper during installation or gaps between the plasterboard and the wall stud can result in nail pops. Movement of the timber makes the Filler over the area pop out from the wall. 1. Add a screw near the first to hold the plasterboard firm. Tap on the pop with the handle of a broadknife to recess a hole,
2. then cover over both nail and screw heads with some wall filler.

External corners 
Metal corner angles sometimes pop through the surface plaster. In other cases, vertical hairline cracks form slightly beyond the corner, usually because the angle wasn’t nailed securely or covered in tape.
1. Secure with extra 30 mm plasterboard nails through the loose edges of the corner angle to hold it flat to the wall.
2. Centre tape over the entire length of the angle and cover with two coats of joint compound.

Loose tape 
Plasterboard joint tape tends to blister and peel when there isn’t enough joint compound under the tape to anchor it to the plasterboard.
1. Cut and peel the loose tape beyond the evident crack, and fill the hole with fast setting wall filler and leave to dry.
2. Embed a strip of paper tape into the joint compound to cover the patch, then overlay two wide applications of joint compound to blend the patch into the wall.

Damaged areas 
If significant damage has been made to a large part of the wall, the damaged area should be skim-coated in a thin layer of joint compound. Begin by removing loose plasterboard poper then prime the remaining raw paper.
Use a brush to saturate the paper with paint and wipe any runs. When dry, lightly sand any raised nubs.
1. Trowel on the joint compound using overlapping vertical strokes.
2. Finish with overlapping horizontal strokes.

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This limited painting standard warranty does not cover

Any work where Beverly Painting did not supply the paint or other materials.

Any work which was not prepared carried out and completed by Beverly Painting.

Surfaces made of, or containing, galvanized metal.

Repairs to horizontal surfaces or any surface that, because its design allows moisture to collect. Include, but not limited to railings, decks, roofs , window sills and stairs.

Paint matching exactly, as the environmental situation will affect the colour and all existing and new paints finish over time. Neither can we guarantee that the finish coating will exactly match the finish paint samples which you selected.

Natural finished wood surfaces or Varnished.

Any repairs which are required as a result of a defect in the paint, Including but not limited to, chalking, fading, lapping and flashing regardless of whether the paint was supplied by the customer or Beverly Painting.

Bleeding caused by cedar, rust or knots.

Cracks in plaster, wood or drywall.

Mould, mildew or any other environmental conditions appearance.

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(part1)PREPARING SURFACE

Any professional painter will tell you that preparation is crucial to a good finish. It’s time-consuming and hard work stripping off old finishes – and even new, bare plaster needs priming – but your job will be far easier if you know what to do.

PAINTED OR WALLPAPERED SURFACES

    Gloss painted

• If repainting and existing paint is sound, wash with sugar soap and water.
• If papering, rub surface with a damp flexible sanding pad to remove the sheen and provide a key for new paint. Ideally, hang lining paper.

      Acrylic painted

• • • If acrylic is peeling, strip back to a sound base. There may be an unstable layer of kalsomine underneath.
    • If the acrylic is sound, wash and roughen the surface with sugar soap and water.
    • If papering, use a wallpaper size.
      Kalsomine
      Kalsomine – an obsolete, water-based paint – forms a chalky barrier which prevents paint or paper adhering to the wall.
    • Scrub off with a rough cloth or a nylon pan scourer and water.
    • If there is a thick coating, damp the whole area, then scrape with a wide stripping knife. Never scrape kalsomine without wetting; it makes too much mess.
    • Coat any remaining kalsomine with an oil-based sealer/binder.
      Standard wallpaper
    • Soften ordinary wallpaper with warm water and a little washing-up liquid.
    • Add a handful of wallpaper paste to each bucket of water – it helps to hold the water on the wall.
    • Use a scraper to lift off the paper.
      Painted wallpaper
    • Roughen the surface with coarse abrasive paper before you wet it or use a steamer.
    • If the paint is thick, you may have to score the surface with a wallpaper scorer.
    • Never use a wire brush – if slivers of metal become embedded in the plaster, they will corrode and stain wall coverings.

    • Vinyls, washables and wipe-clean papers

      • Buy or hire a steam wallpaper stripper, especially if the wall is covered with layers of old paper. Score the surface first so that water can penetrate.
      • Vinyls are easier to strip – the vinyl skin can be pulled from its backing, then the backing can be soaked and stripped.
      • With some modern papers and vinyls (called easy-strip), the backing can be left on the wall as lining paper for the next wallcovering. This only works if the paper is well stuck. If there are any loose areas, strip the whole lot TILES, TEXTURES AND BRICKS Textured coatings
        Thick coatings applied by brush or roller on ceilings and walls are difficult to remove.
      • If you simply want to repaint the textured surface, lightly scrub it with a mild solution of sugar soap and water and allow to dry.
        Polystyrene tiles
        Expanded polystyrene ceiling tiles can be painted with acrylic, but never with gloss paint. To remove tiles, lever each one away from the surface and then scrape off the tile adhesive.
        Ceramic tiles
        If tiles are to be painted, make sure they are clean and dry, then use a specialist tile paint. You cannot hang wallpaper over tiles so you may wish to remove them. Beware, this is hard work, and will necessitate replastering the wall.
        Cork tiles
        Cork tiles cannot be painted over, though you may be able to cover them with lining paper and wallpaper.
      • Prise each tile away from the wall with a wide stripping knife or a bolster chisel.
      • To remove hard lumps of glue, follow the instructions for taking down expanded polystyrene tiles.
      
      
      Brush the bricks to remove dust.      
      • Paint interior bricks with acrylic primer then acrylic top coat or leave them unpainted.
        Steam-stripping a ceiling
        You can use a steam wallpaper stripper to remove old painted or washable wallpaper from a ceiling. Because you will be using the steaming plate above head level, take precautions to protect yourself from being splashed by very hot water. Wear a baseball cap or similar headgear, safety goggles, a longsleeved shirt and work gloves. Set up a work platform across the room, rather than trying to work from steps, so you can hold the steaming plate in front of you as you work across the ceiling strip by strip. Put down plenty of drop sheets, and let the scrapings fall to the floor.
        Be warned, however; this is a messy and time-consuming job, and you may prefer to employ a plasterer to apply a skim coat of plaster over the old finish to create a smooth ceiling surface.
    •  Exposed brick

DEALING WITH PAINT PROBLEMS

The main causes of paint breaking down in the most residential and commercial painting jobs are incompatible paints being applied on top of one another, poor preparation of the surface, damp or trapped moisture, grease, rot or rust.

FLAKING

The paint has not been keyed to the surface, which may be too smooth (as with old gloss paint) or may be chalky (as with untreated kalsomine). Alternatively, rotting timber may be pushing the paint off or rust may have formed underneath

• • Strip small areas by rubbing gently with fine abrasive paper, fill with a fine surface filler, apply a primer and repaint.
  • larger areas must be completely stripped and prepared again from scratch.

BLISTERING

Prick a blister – if water emerges, damp is trapped under the paint or is finding its way in from behind.

• Strip the blistered paint with a hol-air gun and leave until it has dried.
• Prime the surface and then repaint the whole of the repaired area.

CRAZING

When a paint surface breaks up like mini crazy paving, incompatible paints have been used. The top layer of paint

breaks up because it expands at a different rate from the one underneath.

•  Usually, you must strip the paint with chemicals or a hot-air gun and start again.
• Rub down very small areas – no more than a few centimetres square – with a flexible sanding pad or with wet-and-dry paper dampened with water.
•  When the surface is smooth, fill the stripped area with a fine surface filler, prime and repaint

VISIBLE UNDER-COLOUR

Some strong colours are difficult to paint over effectively.

•  A tinted undercoat can help, depending on what colour (or white) is to be the new topcoat. Apply two or three topcoats.
  RUNS
  Too much paint applied in a thick coat results in runs that are hard to disguise
•  If the paint is still wet, brush out runs; but not if the paint has started to dry. Instead, wait until it is completely dry and then rub down with very fine abrasive paper until the surface is smooth.
•  Clean with a damp rag.
• Apply a new thin topcoat

 

STAINS

Stains occur when water in acrylic paint activates impurities in a wall; areas rubbed with a wire brush or wire wool develop rust stains; or deposits in an unlined flue gradually work their way through the paint surface.

• Prevent stains by treating them with a bleed sealer before you start painting.
• If the problem, occurs afterwards, brush a primer-sealer over stain and then repaint.

MOULD AND DISCOLOURATION

Spores settling on paintwork that is damp – possibly due to condensation forming on it-often lead to mould patches.

• Treat the affected area with a fungicide as directed by the FLAWS AND SPILLS manufacturer, wash the surface clean, let it dry and then repaint.

LOSS OF GLOSS SHEEN

Gloss paint will sink into the surface and lose its shine if the surface was not primed- or if either primer or undercoat was not left to dry completely.

• Rub down with damp wet-and-dry abrasive paper.
• Brush off the dust and wipe with a clean, damp rag, then apply a new topcoat.

WRINKLED PAINT

Usually caused by applying a second coat of paint before the first has dried. Solvents in the wet paint underneath attack the second coat when they try to pass through it and make it wrinkle.

• Strip the paint with a chemical stripper or heat and redecorate, this time allowing each coat to dry before applying the next.

GRITTY PAINT SURFACE

If a newly painted surface feels rough and gritty, paint has been applied with a dirty brush or has become contaminated by the surrounding areas. Or there may have been bits of skin in the paint. Always paint with clean brushes and use a paint pot. Strain old paint through a paint strainer or old stockings. Use a shield of piece of card to guard against picking up dirt from a floor.

•  When a gritty surface is dry, rub down with a damp wet-and-dry abrasive paper until it is smooth, wipe clean, then apply a new coat of paint.

 

PAINT WILL NOT DRY

The room is badly ventilated or very cold.

• Open all the windows and doors or put a heater in the room.
• If these efforts do not solve the problem, the paint has been applied to a dirty – and quite probably greasy surface.
• Strip off the paint with chemical stripper or a heat gun and start again, taking great care to clean the surface thoroughly.

FLAWS AND SPILLS

Carpet spill

Act fast if you spill paint. Scrape up as much as you can with a flat-bladed tool. Then dab off what’s left with dry absorbent cloths and paper before lifting the last traces with clean cloths dampened with cold water (for spilt acrylic) or mineral turpentine (for solvent-based paint). Use washing-up liquid on a damp cloth to remove traces of mineral turpentine from fabric.

Paint on glass

The best tool for removing paint from a window pane is a plastic scraper fitted with a trimming knife blade. The blade should be inset very slightly so it cannot mark the frame.

Insects or stray bristles on painted surface

If you can, remove insects or stray bristles that get stuck to fresh paint while the paint is still wet and touch up the surface with a brush and new paint. If the paint has started to dry, wait until it has set hard and then brush away the object – they make less of a mess that way.

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PAINT TECHNIQUES (part3:Paint pads and Roller)

For any residential and commercial painting jobs, roller and paint pads are two useful tools for applying paint for large and small areas.

 

Paint pads

Paint pads are the best choice for applying thin coats of paint to smooth surfaces easily and without drips. They are particularly useful for painting hard-to-reach sections of trim.

USING A PAINT PAD

 

Paint pads are suitable for applying water-based paints. They quickly cover large areas like walls and ceilings and will cope with lightly textured surfaces.
1)Stir the paint and pour some into a flat tray or the speed tray sometimes supplied.
2)Run the pad backwards and forwards on the roller in the speed tray or hold the pad flat against the paint in the tray. Do not let it sink below the pile level. If the pad absorbs too much paint it will drip. A pad needs to be reloaded more often than a brush or roller.

3)Start painting near a comer. Move the pad in all directions with a gentle scrubbing action. Work in strips about four times the width of the pad.
4)Do not press too hard or paint may be forced off the pad in drips. With practice you should get no drips at all.

 

CUTTING-IN WITH AN EDGING PAD

Paint pads are suitable for applying water-based paints. They quickly cover large areas like walls and ceilings and will cope with lightly textured surfaces.
1)Stir the paint and pour some into a flat tray or the speed tray sometimes supplied.
2)Run the pad backwards and forwards on the roller in the speed tray or hold the pad flat against the paint in the tray. Do not let it sink below the pile level. If the pad absorbs too much paint it will drip. A pad needs to be reloaded more often than a brush or roller.

Using a roller

A roller is a fantastic way to cover large areas with paint in less time than it would take with a brush. Lighter patches, roller marks, splashes and built-up ridges are common painting problems, but mastering a few basic roller techniques helps to avoid them.

CHOOSING A ROLLER

A good roller is sturdy with grip-like teeth to prevent the cover from slipping. The roller should spin freely, have an ergonomic and solvent-resistant handle and a durable frame with a metal arm. Make sure it has a threaded handle to attach an extension handle.
TIP For the perfect finish, don’t overload the roller with paint when cutting into trim.
Got it covered
Foam applies a seamless finish ideal for cutting close to trim. Use a foam roller with foam pads on edging for a similar texture across the wall.
Lambswool is tough and durable yet made from soft fibre that holds paint well with minimum splatter.
Synthetic fibres hold lots of paint on the roller, saving time in application.
Microfibre has minimal lint shedding, and is suited to most surfaces.
Mohair is easy to clean and the extra-fine fibre holds and releases paint well. Best with high-gloss paints.
Roller care
New roller Reduce shedding from a new cover by dabbing it with masking tape to remove loose fibres.
Cleaning up for waterbased paint put the roller in a plastic

cylinder that connects to the hose and wash until the water runs clean. When dry, recycle old potato chip cylinder containers to store the clean roller covers.
TIP If taking a short break, cover the roller in plastic wrap to keep the paint wet. Or scrape paint from the cover and rinse until the water runs clear.

 

PAINT WITH A ROLLER

1)Brush paint around the edges of the wall. Load a roller
with paint, starting 300 mm from the floor and 150 mm from the side, rolling upwards at a slight angle with light pressure. Stop short of the ceiling and roll down, working quickly to spread paint evenly.

2) Reload the roller and repeat from a starting point further across the wall, working back towards the freshly painted area.

3)Roll back over the painted area with light pressure to smooth and blend, moving across so the roller always slightly overlaps the previous paint stroke. Continue this way across the wall

4)Without reloading the roller, carefully smooth the paint along the ceiling with long, horizontal strokes, getting as close as possible.

5)To paint around trim, architraves, skirting and frames, J apply paint with long, horizontal strokes. Smooth the paint with short, vertical 

strokes to match the texture of the wall.